Outside The Box
Anna Stöhr is a master at keeping calm during a competition and not for nothing, she has been the world champion in bouldering since July 17, 2011. Yet Juliane Wurm, in third-place this year, won’t go down easily. What happens when two of the most experienced boulderers try out crack climbing in Utah, for the first time? The two women do not have to set foot on unknown terrain all by themselves. In the US, they are meeting up with Lynn Hill, who, in the 80ies, was one of the best female competitive climbers in the world and who is now supposed to introduce Anna and Juliane to this new climbing technique at Castleton Tower in Utah.
„She is so experienced and has already done so many things which I have never even tried before. I am sure she can tell us a lot of things“, says Juliane before she first met with Lynn. Anna is also full of respect for Lynn: „She was the first woman to free-climb the Nose. Not for ten years after, anybody has done that, not even a man. But only for that. She is simply a legend.“
At Castleton Tower, two different generations of climbers meet each other. On the one side, there is Lynn, who climbed before Juliane and Anna even knew how to walk. On the other side, there are two boulderers, who mostly climb indoors and have no experience in trad climbing.
„Lynn will be leading the whole time, otherwise it would be too dangerous. We will already be busy enough focusing on the crack climbing itself and I don’t wanna be bothered being scared to fall just because we didn‘t secure the right way“, explains Juliane.
In the end, however, it turned out to be more dangerous than planned since a heavy thunderstorm came up during the last rope length. The air was electrically charged and lightning flashed through the air. It was what the Americans call „epic“ – and what Juliane and Anna would have loved to do without.